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sitelights
08-20-2003, 06:45 PM
These regulation devices are power resistors that reduce voltage to the lamp to prevent overvoltage when using multi-tap transformers with 12, 13, 14, or 15 volt outputs. Reducing the voltage to less than 12v when using a higher output voltage allows the installer to increase voltage to the distant lamps for higher light output while insuring that the closer lamps have 12v or less. The two regulation devices tested are an old Intermatic Malibu "lamp saver" (plus similar resistors) and the recently introduced Rockscapes regulator model LVR12-15. There are no secrets in landscape lighting but there are a few tricks.

The Malibu "lamp saver" was sold as an accessory to any of their low voltage lighting kits along with replacement lamps, etc. I have not seen them displayed for many years and my memory conjures up the image of two or three to the blister pack for a couple of bucks. The unit that I have tested was purchased at least 15 years ago and has languished in the bottom of a parts bucket all that time. What brought it to mind was the introduction of the LVR12-15 and an email exchange I had with Rockscape's CEO in October 2002.

The "lamp saver" is a small ceramic block (7/8" long and 5/16" square) with a soft (not stranded or sheathed) wire lead 1 1/2" long protruding from each end. Installation was simply cutting one conductor of the fixture lead wire and attaching the device with butt splices to each end of the cut wire: two splices instead of four. All of the resistors tested are approximately the same dimensions. The test conditions for the Malibu (plus other items) and the Rockscapes LVR12-15 were the same. Using a multi-tap transformer with 12, 13, and 15v outputs, a digital volt meter, an MR-16 socket and 10, 20, 35, 42, 50, 65, and 75w lamps. Each device was wired in series: transformer output to device to lamp. Line voltage input was 122.5v and the outputs at the secondaries were 12.25v, 13.05v and 15.35v with no load. The transformer that was handy did not have a 14v tap.

The Rockscapes LVR12-15s were purchased (I bought 12) from callite.com for $6.60 each plus shipping or a unit cost of $7.43 These were the first that they ever sold and it took about two weeks from order to delivery. The LVR12-15 is a plastic box 1 5/8" long, 1 1/4" wide and 7/8" deep with two red and two black wires protruding from two top corners (along the same edge) and the "box" is potted with black epoxy resin. The wires are stranded, tinned copper 18 gauge; the "red leads to fixture" (4" long) and "black leads to power" (60" long) are pre-stripped about 1/2". The label on one side is printed "Rockscapes, LLC Chatsworth CA email: sales@rockscapes.net Regulator Model LVR 12-15 Patent Pending Input voltage 15Vac Max Load 75 watt Max" plus the wiring directions quoted above. There is a flange attached on the center line of the bottom shaped like the male side of a dovetail joint and this is probably a mounting flange perhaps used in Rockscape luminaires all of which have this device pre-installed.

The intended use of the Rockscapes LVR12-15 is marginally different from that of the Malibu item. The LVR12-15 is designed to simplify design and installation by wiring only to the 15v tap and letting the regulator do the work. Since the lamps cannot be overvolted it's a no-brainer. On "Car Talk" Click and Clack use the phrase "...unencumbered by the human thought process". The Malibu item requires a brain and cannot be installed by a trained monkey. A 00.00 volt meter (see post) is absolutely essential to apply this fix.

Both of these devices accomplish their intended use. A somewhat tedious series of tests were performed; over 160 separate voltage measurements covering 5 different regulation devices: the LVR plus a range of 4 power resistors from .5 ohms (Malibu) to .75 ohms. Every item was measured using all the voltages and all the MR-16 lamps. Rather than bore everyone with the numbers (but I will post them if asked) I will offer a narrative instead of a set of tables.

The LVR reduced all the voltages to an acceptable range (10.40 - 11.82v) but at 15v 20w the voltage was 9.20, at 35w 9.70. The LVR handled the entire range of loads with the exceptions noted. The .5 and .551 power resistors (including the original Malibu item) did as well as the LVR with the 20w load at 12 and 13v but they could not handle 15v. With a 35w load they did OK (10.04 - 11.09v at 12 and 13v; the .604 and the .75 hovered around 10v.

The designer/installer using the 15v only method and the standard Rockscape fixtures with the on-board LVRs can rest easy. Other designer/installers who have resisted being captured and held hostage by the makers of unique (no capital U) and proprietary gadgets can save big bucks by using the inexpensive .500, .551, .604 or .750 ohm resistors. A NOTE OF CAUTION! Absolutely DO NOT use these resistors with loads higher than 35w. As the wattage climbs the resistors go from warm to HOT at 50w and above. The LVR by contrast did not get appreciably warm right up to 75w. I have bought a stock of the Dale .551 (order part number RWP21FR511F).

Prior to this desk top test we installed two LVRs on a project last week. The two closest lamps (one on each side of the 10/2 loop to the transformer) were being hit with 13v using the 14v tap; the voltage dropped to 11.8v at the lamp base using the LVRs. However, a very curious occurance was brought to my attention by the client: the two LVRed luminaires did not light up when the system switched on at dusk but they came on after about 20-30 minutes. We experienced the same thing the day we were on site to make a few additions. In fact we assumed that we had bad lamps or a faulty connection at each fixture. We checked one of the fixtures with a new lamp and a re-made connection and while we were doing this the other dark fixture winked on; then the second fixture came on a minute or two later. (This was also experienced during the tests.) We removed the two LVRs and our alternate fix will be the Dale .551 item detailed above. I am going to alert Rockscapes by directing the CEO to this post. [A response was received the next (08.22.03) day: "Joe, the delay is called soft start. The soft start extends the life of the filament by not hitting the filament with 12-volts all at once." This delayed start was eliminated in subsequent iterations.] The client's perception was that two of the fixtures nearest their front door were failing to light up with the other fixtures and they were correct. How can you explain a half hour gap to the client and why should they care? If the LVRs need a warm-up period (like the "strike time" on an HID) their utility is underwhelming. If the Rockscapes LVR fixtures light up one at a time the reverse of this would be just like the Hayden "Farewell Symphony" where the musicians, in turn, blow out their music stand candles one by one until the hall is dark.

How do these things work? They turn the excess voltage into heat and while they do not add to the transformer load, someone is paying for the heat

Interestingly, Kichler's catalog lists a voltage boosting device they call "The Enhancer". These are installed like the resistors but use the voltage in the secondary cable to increase the voltage downstream. They do add to the transformer load but no technical specs are given in the catalog. I will check it out and cover this item in a future product review.

Eden Lights
08-20-2003, 09:49 PM
When I first saw the Rockscapes unit information, I thought to myself what would you need that for? I thought: more cost per fixture, Four more connections per fixture to properly make, one more thing to bury.

Then I thought maybe I could use it to make very short, low wattage runs on the 12V tap. Lets see what would be the results using the above information.

LVR12-15
12.25 in - 10.8 out
Based on 11Volts
75% of light output
85% Efficient
313% Lamp Life
87% of Watts
96% of Color Temp

Everything looks good except for the 75% of light output which is a product of the 10.8 volts. 10.8 Volts is one thing that bugs me to death, like cutting a couple of strands of wire when making a connection or when making fixture adjustments and your favorite position is between the adjustment teeth. It seems that usually when something is too good to be true, its not.

Don
04-19-2007, 08:06 PM
Anything new (since Aug. '03) on voltage regulation devices? I see that Focus Industries is coming out with one (see their transformer catalog for details: http://www.focusindustries.com/pdf/transformers-brochure.pdf ) but isn't yet available, and no detailed specs. are shown.

sitelights
04-20-2007, 10:29 AM
The VRS unit is the same as the LVR item described in an earlier post in this forum with the addition of LEDs. Idiot proof devices tend to be expensive; the LVR was about $15.00 in 2003. I will have more to say about the VRS soon.

Don
04-20-2007, 09:05 PM
Sitelights,

My background is as an electrical contractor who's done some low voltage lighting projects, but not a lot. Currently, I'm creating a new type of landscape light fixture, and am discovering that voltage is problem #1 for a good low-volt lighting system (sound about right?). And it seems like it doesn't matter how well the system is designed, there are still potential problems: E.g., the voltage coming from the utility company can vary (I think that the national law is that it may vary from 105v-130v), transformers have a range of voltage that they may fluctuate in, and if a long string/circuit of LV lights is designed around "x" number of "y" watt lights at "z" spacing and a few of them burn out, then that can cascade into a high voltage situation for the other lights, thus burning others out much quicker than the original design would have. Does that all sound about right? If so, then it seems the only way around all of that is voltage regulators at the light fixture. And based on the specs for Focus' VRS, it looks like you could use a 24vac transformer, and then use the VRS at each light, thus giving you a lot more capacity/distance in each wire run.

What's the alternative, for being confident that voltage (and therefore brightness and lamp life) will remain within a range of, oh, about +-5%, regardless other 'stuff' that's going on in the system?

sitelights
04-21-2007, 01:24 AM
Look at "Line Current Problems" in the Control Forum. Readers of my many posts soon tire of my harping on systems using more than 15v. I am committed to UL1838 and am a bit tiresome on that topic also. Search some keywords such as "UL1838", "22 volts", "high volt" and so on.

Low voltage landscape lighting is a service business; there is no money in the service aspects so simplicity will minimize the time and effort required to create low maintenance systems. Line voltage variation is like weather; you can complain about it but it is not something you can do much about. Line voltage variation tends to null out over the course of a year as voltages rise and fall in the range of 10.5-12.5v. It is variations in lamp to lamp brightness that the client detects; within the range stated it takes a trained eye to see differences unless the fixtures are side-by-side.

Reverse engineering a system to chop the voltage back to 11.5v with a 24v feed seems rather inelegant. High volt systems for the most part use lower gauge, (thin is cheap) gauge wire to increase profit margins. In 21 years and well over 1200 installations we have never used voltages higher than 15v and we have found that overvolt/undervolt conditions of less than 10% have almost no effect on lamp life.

The control devices that I have examined all produce heat i.e. they all become warm (hot) to the touch while chopping voltage. It costs money to produce resistance heat and who pays that bill? Also note that above 15v under certain conditions (mainly in the wet) the current can be felt and at 24v you get a tingle not unlike the effect of placing yourself momentarily into a 120v circuit. We owe our clients the safety inherent with a UL1838-compliant systems.

What I am stating here is not new and details (extensive details) on this topic are contained in earlier posts on these topics. One of the reasons I initiated and fund this site is to avoid repeating myself. I read all of the posts and I can assure you that there is no information relative to your question that is in any way more complete than what is now (04.20.07) on the site.

A system failure about two years ago has resulted in the search engine not looking back further than April 2005 but no posts were lost. A manual search of the site for posts made in 2001-2005 will take you to every post in the archive. Nothing has been lost it is merely harder to find.

My detailed responses demonstrate that I am willing to tackle any query to the fullest extent of my knowledge. I express myself in plain language and it may sometimes appear that am a bit grumpy. This is not intentional and nothing is meant by it; it is just my style.

Don
04-22-2007, 02:21 AM
Sitelights,

I appreciate the forum, and your response. You make a good case. And I did read many of the other posts here before posting, just didn't catch the summary as you provided it here.

With the new fixture I'm developing, due to some unique lighting dynamics, I expect that brightness will need to be closer tolerances than most others. Regardless, I'll try it out with a range of +-10% and see if that's good enough.

Thanks,
Don