Affordable Astronomic Timer

[sitelights]

This new item from Intermatic is obviously (if you look at the attachment) a wallbox product i.e. it is sized to fit into the space occupied by a normal wall switch. The dimensions of the protruding part of the device are, in centimeters, w. h & d: 3 x 5.5 x 2.2 (inches 1 3/16 x 2 1/2 x 1), it weighs 4 oz and it takes a decorator type cover plate.

I have posted to the Controls Forum rather than the Product Review Forum because it is not my intention to do more than simply describe the timer and make a few neutral comments.

To those of us that use photocontrols (p/c) to detect dusk this device will be of keen interest. The problems with p/c are many but I will name only a few: the p/c must "see" daylight; it must be oriented properly (the N sky) which is not always possible; performance (footcandle response) is variable even with two identical p/c from the same manufacturing run and it adds another level of complexity to the task of having lights on from sunset to a pre-determined time.

This is Intermatic's Model SS8 Series and it follows a logical progression of developments in microchip technology that started with earlier wallbox liquid crystal display (LCD) timers that needed frequent adjustment. This device always knows when dusk occurs (and sunrise for that matter so it can replace a dusk-to-dawn p/c) since it is programmed for sidereal time (determined by the sun's position in the sky during the changing seasons) rather than the abstraction of human-imposed clock time. It also has automatic DST changes pre-programmed. Do not confuse the SS8 with an earlier, cheaper model that lacks DST compensation. Why bother?

I found the programing to be quite simple; one merely inputs the the local time, the date and the year along with a setting (south/central/north) approximating the latitude of the location. South is more or less below the 30th parallel, central is between the 30th and 40th parallel and north is above the 40th parallel (central is between Chicago and Little Rock for example. Overall this timer is about as difficult to program as a sports watch. Don't let the four-page instruction manual scare you. A copy of the manual is available on Intermatic's web site (search SS8) as a PDF. There is a link on the "manufacturers" page that will take you to Intermatic's site.

What is difficult is making out the tiny LCD display which is clearly illustrated in the attachment. I would have to carry a photographer's loupe to work with this in the field; perhaps Intermatic could make a minor mold change to the clear cover to provide the needed magnification. There are 8 settings displayed ( time of day, AM/PM, day of the week, zone, DST, sunrise/sunset, mm/dd/yy and on/off) a total of 22 barely decipherable number/letter points of information. Coincidently, the SS8 has 42-event capability which is the same number as the Grasslin* DIGI42.

The alkaline 1.5v AAA battery backup is good for about 1.5 years + (their PDF manual states "3 years" but the print manual states "1 1/2 years"). This could be a problem easily solved with a lithium button battery or a rechargeable Nicad or NI-MH battery.

A lithium 1.5v button battery would have eliminated the AAA battery "drawer" that holds the battery; this battery drawer takes up one-third of the face of the timer. A compact button battery would have allowed more room for a larger display and larger buttons. Maybe they will get it right next time.

The clear/textured cover also functions as an override switch by contacting the next/on/off button with an internal raised + that operates the spring-loaded switch. This is an "air gap" switch which means that the contacts are mechanically (not electronicly) disconnected (the air gap) so that the switch is positively off or on. The switch makes a satisfying whirr and click when operated. These contact switches are typically good for at least 20K switches or about 10 years at one on/off cycle per day. It will switch a wide range of loads: 12 to 277VAC and 12 to 26VDC. The tungsten (incandescent) load rating is 15A 120VAC.

I can visualize this device mounted in place of the plug/receptacle and p/c-ready terminal on an R-3 encased transformer. The 3 cm (1 3/16") depth would allow it to be fitted into an MDL type transformer.

This device can also control incandescent, compact fluorescent lamps and dimmers (up to 30.5m or 100' away) and has 3-way capability built in. It is rated indoor only but the snap-together plastic construction could easily be made weather resistant by applying epoxy or silicone seal to the mating surfaces of the case. This would seal the unit sufficiently from moisture to survive in an R-3 housing or a weatherproof junction box.

It so happens that I have a friend with a bending brake and a waterjet cutter so I am going to have a panel made to fit in place of the regular MDL internal cover with a cutout for the device plus the secondary breaker toggle switches. Results later.

*As a sidebar to this post I will relate a discussion with Grasslin's Tech Support about 8 years ago. I suggested that they develop an astro timer to eliminate the need for a p/c in outdoor lighting applications. My point was that they could approximate astronomic time (if they found that challenge daunting) by simply having a chip that that would count up 1.4 minutes per day for 183 days and then count down from that point for the same length of time. Thus if dusk on December 21 was at 4:30 PM the "on" timing would change by 1.4 minutes each day until June 21 when dusk occurs at 9:00 PM: 183 days X 1.4 minutes = 256 minutes or about 4.5 hours. Only the "off" time would have to be programmed which would constitute a changing interval between dusk and the "off' event. This is a very simple program since all digital clocks count "beats" to track time (so many "beats" per second) and the chip could be configured accordingly.

They were not interested but 8 years later Intermatic markets a product so superior to the DIGI42 (in price as well as performance) that Grasslin will lose market share until they can catch up. Dummies.

[SamIV]

When you say affordable, how much does this retail for?

Thanks,
Sam

[sitelights]

If you go mcmaster.com item numbers 7367K6 (the astro timer) and 71075K14 (a Grasslin knock-off) you can compare the prices that prompted me to state "affordable". Note that one also saves the price of a photocontrol.

Those living in the boondocks far from any technical product resource will find that McMaster-Carr has just about everything (their web site has thousands of pages) at the right price and on your doorstep the next day or (if you are really in the boondocks) the day after.

No I do not own any of McMaster-Carr's stock.

[JCP]

I've used these several times mounted indoor. The cheapest price I've found is home depot for $30. Mail order seems to be about $37-$40.

I just use a Grey PVC box and mount it directly to the transformer.

It also has auto daylight savings compensation.

[sitelights]

Since I have not yet installed one of the timers I would appreciate any comments relative to the reliability and longevity of these timers.

[SamIV]

Drove over to my local Home Depot today to get a look at this timer ($29.95). Man that thing is tiny. Sure would have to break out the reading glasses for programming.

So sitelights you are telling me this timer can be set for year round dusk on and a selective time off without the use of a photocontrol.This would help for the garage installed transformer.

SamIV

[sitelights]

My post is not a recommendation or a complete appraisal of the specifications; this is why I suggested a download of the PDF instruction sheet for the SS8 from Intermatic's web site. My purchase was not an endorsement; I have drawers full of bad equipment. I never buy anything sight unseen; my purchase was an impulse based on the graphics on the package.

In fact, I am not a fan of Intermatic's products; in another post I relate the high failure rate of their photocontrol model K4221; I have bushel basket of them in my warehouse as a reminder of my folly.

Intermatic's "Malibu" line (all of it cheap crap) in my estimation did more to retard the growth of professionalism in low voltage outdoor lighting than any other single product line. Hydrel's 12v line is a close second. Their shoddy equipment at low kit prices tainted the low voltage lighting business because the public identified ALL outdoor low voltage lighting with these price-point-only lines. It has taken years to create distance between their junk and quality equipment.

Intermatic continues to sully the reputation of low voltage outdoor lighting by their pretense of supplying "architectural" products as an upgrade to their bottom-feeding marketing efforts.

Enter "Intermatic photocontrol" or "Intermatic" in the search function for more venom about these products.

Caveat Emptor buddy.

[SamIV]

Caveat Emptor - Alright, no need for cursing at me. For all of us neophytes out there - buyer beware. Hey I had to look it up and I know I'm not the only one. Not only do we extend our knowledge here in lighting, maybe our language and writing skills will improve.

Did not mean to push the wrong button. I passed on it and ordered the Grasslin and a remote PC. Just couldn't see myself installing and charging someone for a timer less appealing to me than my Casio watch.

Thanks,
Sam

[sitelights]

Shortly I will be posting an image of the SS8 astro timer fitted to a 2 x 300 MDL and hidden behind the removeable faceplate. No p/c.

[Eden Lights]

If the timer has three way specs could it wired to control dusk to set time off as normal with an overide for off and on at anytime? I noticed that this is a control option for FX Luminaire transformers in the FX catalog. Any of you California FX guys know how this is accomplished? It states to see a detail drawing, but I cant find the drawing in the catalog or the web site?

[SamIV]

Spoke to someone at Intermatic about this timer as I my interest perked again on this item. He told me it was for indoor use unless your local temperatures do not go below 32 degrees or get above 110. The timer will fail at these temperatures.

SamIV

[Eden Lights]

Take a look at the specs on all the digital timers and you find the average low temp spec is 32 degrees. On a lot of our electrical components you will see this, I have even seen it on several GFI plugs.

[sitelights]

I finally got around to mounting the Intermatic SS8 in a 2 x 300 MDL. Note (in the attached image) that the receptacle is gone, the cord and plug is gone and the plug-in photocontrol socket is gone. The MR resting on the case is a test light; the cover fits with 1/8" to spare. The holes are covered by an adhesive embossed aluminum label with our 800 number.

My motivation was a call from a homeowner who stated that his lights weren't working. When I asked why he didn't call the original installer (a landscape company) he said that the landscaper never returned his calls. When he told me who did his work my ears perked up; I did some referrals for the owner of the landscape company and, in fact, did his own house 15 years ago. The homeowner characterized the landscaper by saying: "He loves you and then he leaves you".

It actually was a workman-like installation (I have yet to see the system on at night) using 12 gauge cable and Focus equipment. The problem for me was that the 2 x 300 transfomer was mounted in the garage and had a mechanical timer. There was no easy way to replace the Focus-labeled transformer with a more user friendly Grasslin/photocontrol combo (search these words) since there was a problem with remoting a p/c.

The MDL/astro is a logical replacement since it does not have to see daylight. This makes it a simple switch: plug in the new MDL/astro and attach the secondaries to the low voltage terminals. The unit imaged is being installed next week.

I am going to use this application as a real-time test before I go any further with the SS8. I quoted the homeowner a replacement with a mechanical timer (his choice) but he is going to get the MDL/astro for the same price.

If any members would like details on this conversion, just ask.

[GOTLIGHTS]

I, like most of you, am on the never ending hunt for affordable, RELIABLE, timing units. I researched the SS8 timer, and actually used it on a few jobs. They have problems!

1. When Intermatic says INDOOR ONLY, they mean it! The AAA battery that is in the unit is what powers the motor that turns the switch on or off. Well, this battery has terminals on either end. If these terminals get corroded (which happens quickly outdoors) the timer malfunctions. Will a NEMA 3 enclosure solve the problem you ask. Maybe. But it will not solve the next problem.

2. In EXTREME temperatures (below 32 or above 110 degrees) the timer will not work. Below freezing and the timer literally freezes. The timer operates off of the battery. In freezing conditions the battery can't pull the juice to turn the switch. Same as a car battery not turning over a starter on a cold day. If the switch operated off the 120V line the problem would be solved. This is one of the reasons why we ignored Edison's advice on using DC power in homes and went with AC instead. Intermatic told me that in extreme heat the "Brain gets Fried" ???

Conclusion... The switch is incredible when it is used indoors. In a lot of new construction contractors are putting switches by the front door and running the power to an outlet below the house or outside intended for outdoor lighting. I still use these timers when I can put the switch in the house and I have never once had a problem! I will borrow the slogan from Ron Popeil "set it and forget it".

So, if you decide to ignore my warnings, Buyer Beware! Hope this helps...

[sitelights]

If something seems too good to be true it probably is. By the way, the SS8 can be wired to provide an override function by using the red wire and following the instructions.

My (so far) single application of the illustrated astro/MDL is in a garage on an heated wall i.e. shared with an interior heated space. I will be monitoring the performance of this hybrid over the winter.

I agree that an internally switched exterior outlet would be the ideal application of the SS8. However, see my 11.11.04 post in the transformer forum "Intermatic SS8 and transformer" for some cautions when used in this manner.

[K.L.L]

Sitelights-
If you wouldn't mind posting the conversion, that would be great. A detailed drawing would also be most helpful. I live in the tropics (sorry to all you northern folks), so the only concern I would have with the unit would be keeping out the humidity.
Thank you in advance.
With kind regards,

K.L.L

[sitelights]

The plain MDL 2 X 300 has a photocontrol socket and a mechanical clock socket on the face of the wiring compartment; this area is covered by a removeable plate that lifts up and off.

When purchased as a bare transformer a flimsy 16 gauge power cord exits the wiring compartment face plate through a plastic bushing and this 2 prong plug connects the line voltage 3-wire (black, white, green/ground) cord to the socket. By plugging the short cord into the socket you connect the line source to the transformer core(s). This set-up allows retrofitting a time clock; the time clock plugs into the socket and the short cord plugs into the clock.

The photocontrol socket has an internal connection point that places an optional photocontrol between the clock output switch and the lead to the core(s). You can operate these units without any controls if you have an interior switch controlling an outdoor receptacle. The units will also operate automaticly with a timer plugged in or dusk-to-dawn if only a photocontrol is plugged in. When the clock and photocontrol are both mounted the clock turns the photocontrol on before dusk, the photocontrol responds to dusk and turns the lights on and then the timer turns the photocontrol off at a set time. You can remove all of these connection points and discard them. Do not disturb or disconnect the green/ground wire which does not need to touched for any reason.

The plain 2 X 300 stainless steel MDL has two small screws on each side of the case at about the mid-point; when these are removed the plate with all the sockets pivots down revealing the interior of the case. You have, of course, made sure that the unit is not plugged into an energized outlet. The two bottom screws on each side normally capture the cover when in place; screw these all the way in (its only 1/8") after you pivot the plate and this will keep the internal wiring compartment exposed by holding the cover out of your way.

The heavy black 3-wire power cord is separated from the sockets by cutting the black wire that is crimped to the black wire on the extraneous clock receptacle and the red wire coming from the photocontrol socket. All of the white wires (the neutrals) are connected together; there is one white from the black power cord and one white from each transformer core. The white wires from the socket and the photocontrol can be eliminated. Remove or cap all the unnecessary wiring.

The black wire from the main power cord and the black wire from the core(s) are separated and the SS8 black or blue leads (it doesn't matter which are connected to the cord or the core) will be wired in between the power cord and the core(s). The red wire from the SS8 is not used unless a remote override is necessary (that is a whole other topic) and it must be capped or taped to guard against any contact with the metal case. If you have ever replaced a single pole wall box switch that is exactly what you are doing now: breaking the hot (black) feed and wiring in a device that will make and break contact as a time switch.

A surface mounted J-box and plate are mounted over the hole left by the removed clock socket. In the image you are looking at a Hubbel plastic low profile single-gang box (PT12lPB) with a Mulberry decora type single gang stainless steel plate (1G SAT-SS GFI RCPT PLT). The only drilling required is two small holes to secure the backing plate to which the box is attached. Curl up the red wire and put it out of your way when you push the blue and black wires from the SS88 through the hole left by the removal of the clock socket. Connect the wires, fasten the SS88 to the J-box and put the stainless steel cover plate in place.

Test the unit before closing up the wiring compartment of the MDL. To do this you will have to put the batteries (supplied) into the SS8 and program it; use a test light (as shown in the image) to confirm correct operation. The holes left by the removal of the short cord bushing and the photocontrol socket must be covered somehow. In the image I have used an adhesive embossed aluminum label of the type I have installed on every tranformer used in the past 20 years. Improvise.

It has taken me a half hour to describe what I did in ten minutes.

In my opinion this modification does not affect the UL1838 listing; the SS8 is a UL listed item. The removal of the exposed 120v connection points (clock socket and photocontrol socket) results in a safer transformer since no water can enter these eliminated open, exposed 120v points.

[SamIV]

Went ahead and installed this about six months ago in a climate controlled garage instead of the Grasslin timer. Still think it looks cheapie but tried it anyway. Also using one on the line voltage lights installed in the soffet of the house. Both turn on within seconds of each other and have had no problems with either.

SamIV

[JCP]

I have installed about 10 - 12 SS8 timers and about half have failed. I now view the SS8 as junk.

I have been using the DT7 externally and had zero failures.

[INTEGRA Works]

I am not a fan of INTERMATIC digital timers, in any series or format.

If you are looking for a good, robust, simple to operate and program, digital astronomical timer (solar timer actually) then I would highly recommend you check out the unit I have been installing for several years from Aube.

http://www.aubetech.com/products/produitsDetails.php?noProduit=78&noLangue=2

This is the same unit that Nightscaping supplies as it's modular digital timer for the Powercenters. NS calls it the PowerSwitch.

For those of you in cold weather climates, you will be happy to note that it uses a Ni-Mh battery for backup, allowing it to be installed in outdoor locations. (Ni-Cad batteries are not rated for freezing conditions.)

Have a great day.

[Mike M]

James;

I like the self-contained unit that Nightscaping made for the Aube, I used it once, and will be using it again soon, when I do not use the wall switch.

But does anyone know a cheaper device than the Nightscaping unit? The Intermattic astro is not cutting it for me, plus I don't think it works currectly for anything over 300W.

[INTEGRA Works]

James;

I like the self-contained unit that Nightscaping made for the Aube, I used it once, and will be using it again soon, when I do not use the wall switch.

But does anyone know a cheaper device than the Nightscaping unit? The Intermattic astro is not cutting it for me, plus I don't think it works currectly for anything over 300W.


Mike, I pay about $40 each for the Aube timer through my electrical wholesaler. That is pretty competitive for an in-wall, digital, astro timer unit. TI035 is the part number: http://www.aubetech.com/products/produitsDetails.php?noProduit=78&noLangue=2

[Mike M]

James, I was hoping they would make a version to fit inside transformers.

I am currently including the Nightscaping self-contained version in my lighting proposals. A little costly, but it is cheaper than hiring an EC to mount the switch. My customers enjoy the added novelty of plugging in their Christmas lights to the extra receptacle.

In fact, at a recent call-back, due to a dead battery in the intermattic, and then a broken contact/spring, and then the $10 watch battery replacement receipt, and then staring at this upside down unprofessional-looking device, I told my client they were getting two new awesome sunset timers (one for each side of the house), courtesy of me.

[INTEGRA Works]

James, I was hoping they would make a version to fit inside transformers.

Just to be clear... there is a version that fits just perfectly inside of a Nightscaping Powercenter... it is of course the Aube Timer Switch that is fitted onto a modular control bay cover. Nightscaping Part Number T-SS-PS.

Pretty sure this wont work for all the other Transformers on the market... but then again, IMO Nightscaping does offer the most diverse line of control options in the industry. I would go so far as to suggest it is worth switching manufacturers for.