Grazing vs. Washing

[Eden Lights]

I love to graze (6"-9" from wall) rough stone and brick due to the lighting level contrasts it projects, but I find myself wall washing (18"-32" from wall) to keep the number of fixtures down to control costs. What method does everybody sell the most? I use spread lens to keep the hot spots to a minimum whan grazing. What about linear spread lens?? I feel strong in landscape and hardscape designs, but I wrestle with my facade lighting. Any ideas or thoughts would be great.

[sitelights]

Under the conditions you describe the widest possible beam spread is desired. This rules out reflector lamps (MR-16) which max out at 60 degrees. The most common lamp in my systems is the Ushio 20w Superflood with front glass. You can get a 120 degree spread with a mini-flood such as Hadco's WAML-14 with a 20w bi-pin lamp. This unit has the widest horizontal spread of everything I looked at. Unlike the triangular beam of even a Superflood, the WAML projects a trapezoid-shaped beam with the wide side up. I calculate using 1' from the wall and 8' centers with the WAML aimed slightly below the vertical. Be aware that the WAML ships with a 75w bi-pin which is useless in a residential setting. I never exceed 20w in any fixtures. The most common mistake in outdoor lighting (next to using undersized cable) is overlighting.

[Eden Lights]

I understand that less is better, but what about the larger two story homes? Still a 20W?? I have never used the 60 degree lamp, will give them a try. I ordered some minifloods, cant wait to try them out. Thanks

[landscapelight]

The hadco Waml fixture is too overrated for this application what I mean by this is it is rated for 75 watts and therefore you would by code have to size your transformer accordingly even if you use a twenty watt lamp. I'd suggest using either a Mr11 or Mr16 type fixture with a linear spread lense and possibly a honey comb louver to soften if required. The linear spread lense will provide a much more controled and even beam spread and also allow you to select a fixture with a lower maximum wattage rating so you dont have to use a 600 watt transformer to power eight light fixtures. I'd suggest either a simple designed model with a flush hood, if you use an angled cap it will effect the linear beam of light leaving the fixture and defeat your purpose as it will cut off and limit the beam, a good fixture would be a BK Lite-star of Lumiere 203 where the lamp is right up to the front of the luminaire and the linear spread lense will serve it's purpose well.

[Eden Lights]

Thanks for the comments and ideas. When you use the 203 with a spread lens what do you do about glare control?? Can you use the honeycomb and spread lens? When you use a spread lens do use a spot or a flood lamp. I read in the Kim catalog to always use spots with linears and floods with regular spreads? I was unaware of the code requirement, is that a local code or a national code?

Thanks again

[sitelights]

What particular code are you referring to when you state that a low voltage system must be designed to accomodate the highest wattage lamps that will fit into its luminaires? Luminaires are stickered with the MAX wattage, not the only wattage. I get my WAMLs with a 20w MAX label and a 20w lamp by request. The MR-16 lamp pins are the same for a 10w or for a 250w. A lamp socket rated for a 75w bi-pin will readily accept a 10w bi-pin lamp. Just because a lamp will fit does not mean that it is appropriate to use. There is no reason that a luminaire can not be underrated in terms of lamp wattage. All my systems are designed for 20w maximum lamps even though the luminaires are rated for at least 50w. When 20w will do the job, why waste energy and overlight using higher wattage lamps? In terms of photometrics, it is much preferred to use the appropriate reflector type and lamp rather than attempt to correct the wrong optics with lenses and/or louvers.

[Eden Lights]

I just tried this fixture out, and I was very unpleased with the comparision, right next to a Hadco 616 with a spread lens and while the WAML14-H was a wider beam it seemed to not take any light above about 10feet. Using the supplied 75W bulb, could that be the problem?

[sitelights]

The WAML14 beam spread is about the same with a 20w as with a 75w; one is just brighter than the other. If you are lighting a house wall you'll want to adjust the tilt to reach as high as you need; this may require that you move the WAML closer to the wall. This may take some experimenting on your part. What you see is what you get; it's a matter of personal preference. I don't use accessory lenses.

[landscape liter]

All my systems are designed for 20w maximum lamps even though the luminaires are rated for at least 50w. When 20w will do the job, why waste energy and overlight using higher wattage lamps? In terms of photometrics, it is much preferred to use the appropriate reflector type and lamp rather than attempt to correct the wrong optics with lenses and/or louvers. [/B][/QUOTE]

The 20 watt BAB MR-16 is probably the most used lamp in outdoor lighting today. Rightfully so , but it is not for every application. (I've tried the 60 degree Ushio lamp and do not see a big difference in beam spread from the 40 degree BAB when installed in a fixture. It also does not have a 4,000 hour rating. At least that is my experience. The quality and longevity of Ushio's standard MR-16's are not nearly as good as GE or Sylvania. The 10 watt is over priced junk that has a very short lamp life and weak ceramic)
Advocating the use of 20 watt lamps exclusively in designs reminds me of a manufacturer who preaches using only 35 watt halogen PAR lamps regardless of the application. Both practices are very restricting . Certainly there are needs for lamps and luminaires capable of handling and producing varying wattages capacities and photometrics. There is also nothing wrong with using different lenses to create interesting effects or additional shielding/louvers for glare control. Use of the same wattage lamp in every fixture in a project also lessens the designer's ability to create varying degrees of brightness which are crucial to the aesthetic look of the lighting composition.
I don't agree that one of the biggest problems with most designs are from overlighting. The biggest problem is insufficient fixture counts which result in stark contrast, from bright to complete darkness. Most amatuers and DIYers use little or no transition or fill in type lighting so their projects end up looking "spotty". Levels of light are subjective. Everyone has their own opinion. The only one that counts is your clients.
As for "wasting" electricity, find clients who cannot only afford your professional services and equipment but can afford to pay the monthly electrical bill so they can enjoy your system. Low voltage lights are so rediculously inexpensive to operate that any talk of saving money by reducing lamp wattage at the expense of system performance is counter productive and unnecessary. Quality Low voltage outdoor lighting is a custom amenity and not meant for everyone.

[Eden Lights]

Thanks for the information

[sitelights]

I am not going to take issue with most of the contents of your post; these things are a matter of taste and perception (what is bright or dim really?) and I do agree that one of the faults of many projects is a paucity of luminaires. I will, however, take exception to two items: first, subtlety is often lost in an overall outdoor light scheme so the use of specialty effects can be more of a self-indulgence on the part of the designer than a functional aspect of the design. I have spent hours testing and choosing the proper lamp, etc. in art gallery lighting that would be totally extraneous in outdoor lighting. Lighting that draws attention to itself is a failure since it is what is lighted that really counts. Second, it is a matter of personal responsibility to conserve energy. I don't care if the client has six SUVs in his garage; I feel it is my duty to expend as little energy as possible to do the job. It may be that some subscribe to the "California" look (high surface brightness) but look what happened to California energy costs recently. If there is one aspect of outdoor lighting that my clients request more than any other it is low-keyed effects. Energy conservation is important.

[landscape liter]

With proper aiming, shielding and lamp choice, fixture quantity has no direct correlation with your statement - "lighting that draws attention to itself is a failure since it is what is lighted that really counts". It is your opinion that it is your responsibility to conserve energy. It is not mine. It is my responsibility to design and install the best outdoor lighting system for the budget I am given by my client. The fact that my systems are low voltage make it a given that they are energy efficient and I am energy conscious. It is not a designer's personal and primary responsibility to save a clients money in energy useage at the cost of system quality and performance.
What is this "California look" you speak of high surface brightness? Where do you form your biased opinion? From a picture on the cover of a book where the exposure may not be correct? Have you walked several projects after dark in California? Have you ever been to California? Have you ever installed a project there? You say look what has happened to California's energy costs lately. What's your point. One can say look what has happened to gas prices at the pump as well. But this hasn't stopped car dealers from selling trucks and SUV's.
You speak as though you are an expert on lighting in California. Don't you live and operate in Pennsylvannia? By the way isn't your state in the midst of a terrible drought? Do you advocate the abolishment of garden watering as well?

[sitelights]

This 200 year old stone farm house was hit with 240w (12 X 20w); the contrast is a bit high since this photograph required a 2 second exposure and the illuminated surfaces are slightly "burned in". The brightest surfaces by design are the white pillars (not historically correct; added in the 1880s) that frame the entry porch. All the lamps were MR-16 20w 60 degree except the 20w ESX pillar lights. 1999

This photograph was not digitally enhanced; Kodak ASA 100 Ektachrome, Nikon F3 with a 2.8 20mm lens f:4 exposure: 30 seconds

[sitelights]

Farm house image

[Mike C]

Sitelights, does the Ushio 20w Superflood go in the Hadco WAML-14? If not, what kind of fixture does it go in? Also, from the little research I did, it seems the Hadco WAML is a 120V fixture, is this correct? I have a 50 foot long, 7 foot high ficus hedge that is trimmed square that I need to wash with some subtle light. What would you suggest?

[Eden Lights]

The 20 watt BAB 60 degree lamp is a MR16 lamp some good fixtures are the Kichler 15384 & Hadco BL5016 and in a upper line the Lumiere 203 & Kim KLV710. For something with the width of a hedge and I would guess the hedge is not a focal point I would recommend a mini flood using a T4 Bi pin style lamp, the fixture determines the photometrics by the design of the reflector. I recommend the Hadco WAML14 or the Kim KLV215 the new design of the Kichler 15395 is an excellent base model. I feel that the Kim has edge on the others when it comes to uniformity or smoothness. If needed the shroud for glare control is an option. Decide on a fixture and decide on spacing and setback at night in the real world of sight.

[Mike C]

Thanks for the information so quickly! Regarding the 20 watt BAB 60 degree lamp is a MR16 lamp fixtures, I'm down her on the Florida coast, so I'm hesitant to use aluminum fixtures. Can you recommend a "best value for the buck" fixture(s) for this lamp in brass, copper or bronze?
Also, you are correct the hedge is not a focal point. It actually runs between two focal points and I don't want a big dark space, thus the reason for wanting some light on the hedge. I looked at the Hadco WAML14, Kim KLV215 and Kichler 15395 and again, these are aluminum. Again, can you recommend a "best value for the buck" fixture(s) for this lamp in brass, copper or bronze? is an excellent base model. Also, do these mini-floods have different types of lamps (wattage and spread) and if so, what would you recommend? Finally, what do you think about linear or spread lenses for this type of thing with the above MR16?

[Mike D]

Mike,
Hadco's WAML-14 is a 12 volt fixture. Its "sisters", the WAM-1 and WA-1 are 120 volt fixtures.

Regarding the lighting of your hedge, be cautious with the WAML-14. For the record, I used six of them very successfuly to wash a two-and-one-half story house. Four lamped with a 20w T4 and two fixtures lamped with 35w T4 (in order to reach the peaks, per customer request). The reason I say this is my concern for the distance you are able to put between the fixtures and the hedge. If you are limited to a distance of a foot or so, you will not be able to take full advantage of the spread this fixture offers. And you will have serious hot spots. When preparing to install my first wall washers, I purchased one each from three different manufactures and played at my own home for a week until I found the solution. Turns out, the first time I did this the end result was grazing not washing, by using strategically placed bullets. And that was because I couldn't place the WAML fixtures far enough out, they would have landed in the turf! The upshot was I became very familiar with what the WAML could and could not do for me. When I visited the home mentioned above, I knew immediately that the WAML would wash those walls just like the client imagined.

Depending on the shape of the hedge (and the planting bed) you might consider using well lights. Also, if you have some nearby trees, or appropriate structures, you might also play with moonlighting the hedge. Again, much of this depends on the taper of the hedge. Also, depending on its density, play around with backlighting. It may not work at all, then again, you might be suprised! Keep us posted.

[sitelights]

What is missing here is the photometrics of the lamps and reflectors. Hadco does not publish the photometrics for their WAML14 12v series but I have used the 1:2 ratio in my calculations i.e. 1' from the object equals 2' beam spread. This is approximately 120 degrees as opposed to the Ushio 20w 60 degree MR16 beam. It is a simple matter to ascertain the beam spread of a fixture/lamp combination using a set up that is similar to adjusting the headlights of an automobile. I use a blank wall inside my garage that is painted white; this allows testing of photometrics in daylight. While my set up is not finely calibrated it does provide a base line for previewing fixture/lamp performance.

I have laid out a grid of lines on the floor and wall of my garage using a 1' X 1' module. Thus if I place a fixture/lamp at, for example, 1' from the wall I can determine the width/height of the beam as it falls onto the vertical surface. I can also determine the footcandle (FC) output by using my light meter to quantify the FC at various points around the beam center as it strikes the wall. This is not rocket science.

While we all can approximately judge the effect of a fixture/lamp combination with the naked eye, the quantification of the effects provides a description that transcends the purely narrative. How wide? how high? high bright? how smooth? etc can be accurately assessed. Remember that the fragmented reflective surface of plant material alters the beam's performance thus the smooth white wall test is merely a schematic to be verified in the field.

A search of various key words: beam, degree, WAML, photometrics, footcandle and so on will provide more detail on these topics.

[Mike C]

Guys, thanks so much for your quick replies. I'm just switching careers (for the first time at 46) into this industry from printing and I really want to learn to do this right! (Placed an advance order for Janet Moyers' book last week.)

[Helvanmak]

Where you get it???

[Mike C]

If you mean where did I get the book, it's available on Amazon.com. The title is "The Landscape Lighting Book."